Spotlight Japan
Ekiben: The Moveable Feast
For most Japanese, train travel is nothing without a lunchbox treat to pass the journey. As travelers savor tidy parcels of rice, grilled fish and crisp pickles, a sense of camaraderie grows as they watch the scenery pass.
Since ancient times, the Japanese have carried handy packs of food while on the go. By the sixteenth century, the term bento had appeared to describe these snacks—a word that includes the sense of "usefulness" and "eating quickly." By the Edo period (1603-1867), bento had become more elaborate, consisting of lacquered, multilayered boxes filled with small individual dishes. These were considered key accessories for cherry blossom viewing or theater visits.
The practical bento—compact, portable, delicious—was the perfect accessory when train travel in Japan became widespread in the late 1800s, as people naturally carried bento to eat on long journeys. And so the stage was set for the birth of the station (eki) bento, or ekiben—one of Japan's most delicious customs. History reveals that on July 16, 1888, at Utsunomiya train station, the first ekiben was sold for a pricey five sen, about US$10 in today's currency. It held two riceballs accompanied by pickles and was wrapped in the sheath of a bamboo shoot.
Today, ekiben are still an essential part of this country's railway experience, and train travelers can purchase ekiben throughout Japan for about 1,000 yen (US $9). As of 2000, 2,200 kinds of ekiben were sold at 270 local and bullet-train stations around the country. Of these, about one-third are "ordinary" ekiben which contain rice accompanied by egg, grilled fish, kamaboko (a kind of fish cake) and a selection from a standard menu of teriyaki chicken, stewed vegetables and pickles.
The best-selling variety of ekiben, however, is the "specialty" type, sold only at specific stations. These may feature regional or seasonal specialty foods, or be served in unusual containers. Most agree that the most popular specialty ekiben is ikameshi (squid stuffed with rice), created in 1941 in response to wartime rice shortages and sold at Mori Station on the northern island of Hokkaido.
Modern ekiben culture survives in part through "ekiben fairs" held periodically at various department stores around the country. Such fairs feature famous special ekiben from throughout Japan—a way to offer up a taste of the country's regional cuisines without the expense of a long train ride. Thousands of would-be travelers flock to these fairs for a nostalgic taste of the past, to relive a time when rail travel was a special adventure. At one fair featuring 200 different kinds of ekiben, total sales hit nearly 698 million yen during its two-week run.
Yet modern express trains and air travel are challenging ekiben traditions. With shorter journeys, rather than eat on the train, today's travelers often buy ekiben to take home or give as souvenirs. To survive, ekiben are adapting: Chinese and Western-style ekiben are available, along with eye-catching packaging such as lacquer, porcelain or straw containers. One of Tokyo's airports has even responded to airline meal cuts with the soraben—literally, "air-bento." For those with a taste for extravagance, at Tokyo Station a unique 3,800 yen ekiben is sold, comprising four gourmet specialties from throughout Japan, such as grilled Hokkaido salmon and local abalone. Only 70 of these popular "Japan sampler" ekiben are made daily, and they sell out quickly.
Today, although travel has changed vastly in Japan, there remain a few slow-moving trains that meander through the countryside and stop at small local stations. Here, the hungry traveler can experience a nostalgic trip of the senses by enjoying a fresh ekiben made with the local seasonal specialities: a savory treat to enhance the journey.
