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Spotlight Japan Back Issues

Tofu Temptations

The “tofu trend” has been around for centuries in Japan, with no sign of waning. What is it about this healthy fare that continues to appeal?

In the West, fresh tofu is rare. Most consumers there find it vacuum-packed in supermarkets, and less than tasty. Then there’s the question of how to consume a healthy, but bland, block of soybean curd: many eat tofu smothered with soy sauce, or in the form of “tofu burgers.” But the truth about tofu is that an exciting range of fresh textures and flavors exist, particularly in trend-happy Japan, where new ways of tofu indulgence seem to emerge daily.

Until about 40 years ago, tofu was available only at special shops in Japan, made by hand using fresh soybeans, natural brine and pure water. Though rare, these shops still exist, selling various tofu products including yuba (delicate soymilk skin) and abura-age, deep-fried tofu. Ironically, these shops began to decline as tofu’s popularity grew rapidly in the mid-1960s, when packaged tofu with a long shelf-life appeared in supermarkets, then later in convenience stores.

There are three standard types of tofu: soft, fine-textured kinugoshi; firm-textured momen; and yaki-dofu (grilled tofu). The softer variety of fresh tofu (which, if well-made, has a delicate, clean taste) is often enjoyed simply with a little soy sauce and garnished with ginger, while firmer momen is often cooked, as in sukiyaki. In many classic Japanese dishes, a tofu or soymilk-based food is paired with either soy sauce or miso or sometimes both – thus creating unique dishes consisting entirely of concentrated soy-based protein.

Of late, tofu has found a niche as a gourmet health food and as a versatile ingredient in ethnic fusion cuisines. Organic or all-natural hand-made tofu can be found freshly made in specialty tofu shops and in depa-chikas. For those craving more than basic tofu, unusual taste combinations and novel preparations of the simple bean curd have emerged: delicious variations related to the seasons, holiday, or health trends include yuzu-tofu (citrus-flavor), tofu pudding, black-sesame tofu, tofu mousse and tofu ice cream. Innovative tofu recipes have become a popular staple of women’s magazines, targeting the health- and diet-conscious.

Even bolder creations have emerged under the hands of certain inventive Japanese chefs. A recent TV drama about a Zen vegetarian cuisine restaurant may have helped spur a growing trend in tofu-specialty restaurants. Their menus feature traditional tofu preparations as well as fusion dishes inspired by various cuisines, such as Southeast Asian spring rolls stuffed with tofu and seafood, tofu croquettes, tofu-filled Chinese dumplings, and tofu- or soymilk-based cocktails.

Because tofu tends to take on the flavor of whatever ingredients it is combined with, it makes the perfect foundation for just about any fusion-cuisine concept. Healthy and endlessly versatile – it’s perfectly clear why the tofu trend is unlikely to end anytime soon.