Nukazuke
This year, Fundamentals 101 looks at Japanese tsukemono pickled vegetables and their various preparation techniques, starting with nukazuke fermented pickles.
Nukazuke pickles are made using nuka rice bran, the powdered hulls resulting from the polishing of brown rice. Fresh vegetables are pickled for several hours or even days in pickling paste called nuka-miso, which is made by fermenting a mixture of nuka, salt and water. Fermentation takes place thanks to lactic acid bacteria and yeast which break down sugars and proteins in the vegetables. This fermentation in turn generates glutamic acid, the component of umami, which imparts the distinctive taste of mild acidity and natural sweetness in nukazuke. The nuka-miso fermentation bed is placed inside a lidded container where it matures over time and, with care and attention, can be reused for many years. In the past, individual households had their own signature nuka-miso bed passed down from generation to generation, resulting in each family’s pickles having a unique taste.
Making and care of nuka-miso
To make nuka-miso, place rice bran, salt and water in a container and mix well to encourage fermentation. Chili peppers (for antiseptic purposes), and kelp (for umami) may be added. The nuka- miso requires careful attention to sustain and balance its fermentation agents. Mix the nuka-miso by hand once a day, shifting the nuka-miso on the bottom of the container to the surface repeatedly. Store the container in a cool dark place or refrigerator.
Preparing nukazuke
Rub salt over the vegetables before placing them in the nuka-miso. Cover them completely with nuka-miso then flatten the surface of the nuka-miso bed. After a few hours, overnight, or longer, take out the now-pickled vegetables (nukazuke); flatten and press down the surface of the bed to expel air after removing them. Wipe off excess nuka-miso from the nukazuke, rinse under cold water and cut into bite-size pieces. A few drops of soy sauce may be applied to enhance flavor.
