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TRENDS IN TASTE Vol. 38 No. 2 Summer 2024

Bento Boxes

There is a bento box for every taste, age and occasion

Shokado bento

Japanese bento are a modern global phenomenon, winning over foodies and Japanophiles alike. They are specifically designed to present small portions of assorted foods in a pleasing balance of color, nutrition and flavor. With their nearly 1,000-year history, bento box containers are as uniquely functional—and as attractive—as they have ever been.

Bento boxes range from petite sizes for youngsters (which often feature popular anime characters), to larger-capacity two-tiered styles, to streamlined designs that fit neatly into a business briefcase. There is a bento box for every taste, age and occasion, and they are ideal for carrying food to school, while traveling, for work or on outings. There are insulated bento boxes that keep food warm, while high-tech versions can cook up fresh warm rice directly inside the box. In the face of so many options, however, there has been a notable resurgence of Japan’s venerable, centuries-old magewappa bento boxes.

Traditional magewappa are round or oval wooden bento boxes individually handcrafted using techniques developed in the sixth century. Their curved circular shape involves a single thin sheet of cypress, cedar or hiba (a variety of cypress), whose ends are joined with narrow strips of wild cherry or white birch bark. Magewappa may be unvarnished or lacquered, and not only are they lovely to look at, their appeal also lies in the smooth texture, warmth and fragrance of the natural wood. Magewappa are highly practical in that they are lightweight, while the wood absorbs excess moisture from the rice, which extends its freshness. Some even claim that rice kept in a magewappa tastes better when cold.

Another traditional container is the shidashi bento box, which traces its origins to elaborate kaiseki cuisine prepared by professional caterers and restaurants. The foremost example of the shidashi bento box is the lacquered shokado bento, named after prominent artist and monk Shokado Shojo (1582-1639), who famously used compartmented tobacco trays. The eponymous shokado bento box was created in his honor: it is a lidded, deep square box with four compartments. Fitted into each section are exquisite dishes of artistically arranged food—thus diners may admire a harmonious culinary presentation complemented by the aesthetic of the box itself.

Classic magewappa and contemporary bento boxes
Vol. 38

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