Intrinsic Flavors

Shojin ryori is prepared using only plant-based ingredients such as vegetables, edible wild plants, seaweed products, grains and so on—in other words, no meat, fish or other animal ingredients are used. Inevitably, its flavors may not be as rich and strong if meat or fish were to be used, as plant- based elements naturally lean toward a lighter taste. When dining on shojin ryori, the true taste experience can be best appreciated if one does not compare it to the standards of ordinary fare. With shojin ryori, the natural taste of the ingredients themselves must be regarded as the standard for goodness. A carrot just pulled from the earth, for example, is extremely sweet. Rice is sweet. Do we really know the fresh taste of a just-picked cucumber, daikon or cob of corn?

Shojin ryori does not employ strong seasonings or heavy sauces that may override the true flavors of individual ingredients. Rather, this cuisine focuses on extracting their distinctive and intrinsic flavors and seeks to communicate that essence. Flavor acquired in such a way is referred to as tan-mi; literally, “light flavor.” Tan-mi represents a kind of ideal concept that goes beyond the five basic flavors set out in principles of Japanese cuisine referred to as Gomi, Goho, Goshoku: Five Flavors, Five Methods, Five Colors (see diagram). Tan-mi is what seekers of enlightenment strive to achieve in their daily devotion to Zen precepts. Neither insipid nor lacking in flavor, the elusive notion of tan-mi goes beyond “light flavor”: it is the result of drawing out the essential quality of each ingredient.

The fundamental procedure that is indispensable in eliciting that inherent nature is the creation of dashi stock. Soaking kombu and/or dried shiitake mushrooms in water overnight creates what is called ichiban-dashi, or “primary stock.” This is a clear liquid with a beautiful tawny tint and refined umami. It also has a pleasant aroma, so it is used for dishes such as clear soups and vinegared salads, where the flavor of the dashi can be savored directly. Niban-dashi, or “secondary stock,” is made by slowly simmering the same kombu/shiitake that was used in making the ichiban-dashi stock in a fresh pot of water. Umami-rich niban-dashi can be used in the preparation of dishes that possess comparatively stronger tastes; for example, foods prepared with oil, or recipes that involve the addition of miso or mustard. Just as when constructing the foundation of a building, if these two basic dashi stocks are not prepared well, they cannot draw out the flavors of the ingredients at their fullest strength. Therefore, properly prepared ichiban- and niban-dashi are essential when making shojin ryori. Using the dashi as the starting point, taste can then be adjusted using appropriate amounts of mirin, soy sauce and/or salt, whose respective umami elements interact to create flavors with depth that, although ostensibly simple, are quite complex.